Fairytale Cities: Vienna and Prague
- Stephanie Michaud
- May 1, 2019
- 8 min read
Though only a few hours apart by train, both Vienna and Prague showcase two sides of incredible European heritage and culture and can easily be explored in a week. During the major conflicts throughout the 20th century, neither city experienced significant bombing or conflict- allowing for many original monuments and structures to remain intact, ultimately giving you the experience of stepping back in time.
Trip Itinerary
For this trip, my mom Linda met me in Vienna after I had been attending a conference in Frankfurt, Germany. My maternal grandfather is from Vienna, and my paternal grandfather is from former Czechloslovakia, so we decided this would be an exciting way for us to explore our family history together.
We started first in Vienna simply because the flights and connections were easier and more affordable compared to flying in and out of Prague. This trip could easily be reversed if desired.
Destination Map
The old town of Vienna is simply stunning- with cobblestoned streets, open squares with beautiful storefronts, manicured green spaces, and the Hofburg palaces overseeing it all. We stayed near Mortizsplatz in the Old City center, and found that we could easily walk to all the destinations we desired. Transportation was also quite easy to navigate when we needed to go further, like on the afternoon we visited the Schonbrün Palace and Gardens.
For a full walking tour of Vienna, I would recommend the following day trip, which if you wear comfortable shoes, will give you an excellent opportunity to experience the old city on foot. You can also find the full link to the Google Map here.
Vienna is an incredibly fashionable city- not only are the buildings impeccably maintained and decorated, but the people are equally beautiful and charming. We found plenty to love here, and simply enjoyed wandering the streets to find our next meal or drink!
Vienna was the original ruling seat of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and the palaces here hosted the royal family in opulence. The Hofburg palace and surrounding buildings showcase the luxury and majesty of this time period, along with the famous Spanish Riding School, where the Lipizzaner horses are trained in traditional military maneuvers now only used for showmanship and tradition. No photos are allowed inside the riding hall, but the performance demands your full attention anyway! The Lipizzaners are the quintessential symbol of Vienna and Austria, and a must see when you visit. Plan ahead since their schedule is limited to one performance a week in the off-season.
My mom and I share a passion for wine, and being partial to white wine, my mom loved the idea of visiting the Wachau Valley. About an hour drive outside of Vienna, the Wachau valley is both a UNESCO world heritage site, and the premier region for wine growing in Austria. We booked a local tour and spent the day visiting the smaller towns, castles, and wine taverns (locally called heurig) along the Danube river. This was an absolute highlight of our trip, and a place I will plan to come back to. The Melk Abbey was also beautiful to visit in the valley, and the monks who inhabit the abbey are credited with starting wine production here.
After a couple of days we packed up from Vienna and caught our train to Prague. From the main Hauptbahnhof in Vienna, Prague is about a 4 hour journey through beautiful rolling countryside. Since it was the fall, the leaves were changing in the forests and the fields were active with the harvest.
Prague is the capital of the former kingdom of Bohemia, and has a long and storied history. The gothic architecture, statues and symbols used here are beautifully preserved and maintained, making it an absolute joy to explore, both during the day and at night. The city is also very walkable, and each cobblestone street typically winds through plazas until you reach one of the many bridges across the Vlatva river up to the famous Prague castle.
For our first day, the weather was perfect for a long walk throughout the city. Our AirBnB host had provided us with an excellent walking plan, involving walking along the river, up to the funicular in Petrin park, and then down through the monastery (including the library and brewery) and onward to the old city, Prague castle, and Charles Bridge. We set off in the morning to explore, and spent the entire day on our feet. If you only had one full day in Prague, this would be how I would recommend spending it!
On our second day, we decided to explore more of Prague castle. After a brief view the day previously, we committed to buying tickets into the Castle (there are several different options, depending on how much you want to see) and walked in. I would definitely recommend visiting the main Cathedral and the Golden Mile as top attractions- we skipped many of the museums since we wanted to stay outside in the sunshine as much as possible. For those who may be claustrophobic, be careful entering some of the shops in the Golden Mile. They have been restored but are very crowded and tiny!
Prague is known for its beer, since it is the birthplace of the Pilsner recipe, and we made sure to enjoy a recently restored beer hall, complete with rye bread, sausages, and mustard. Prague is also known for producing several different kinds of absinthe, and we enlisted a local to show us around several different absinthe bars. Even if you aren't a fan of the spirit, I would recommend giving the tour a try since there are many ways to enjoy the spirit!
After our visit to Prague, we headed back to Vienna to fly back to North America. We spent one final night in Vienna, enjoying the old city on foot yet again, and a traditional dinner with roasted goose. A wonderful cap to our epic trip!
Helpful Links
Vienna
The Spanish Riding School of Vienna - If you want to see the iconic Lipizzaners perform, make sure to check the schedule and reserve tickets in advance. They typically perform once a day, on both Friday and Saturday. If you have issues booking online with a North American credit card (as we did), give their office a call/email and they will happily assist you.
The great Sachertorte debate - For the culinary saavy and chocolate cake lovers, make sure to weigh in your opinion by tasting the Sachertorte from both Hotel Sacher and Cafe Demel.
Thirteen Things to do in Vienna - Timeout always curates a great list of activities to help start your planning.
A Local's Guide to a Weekend in Vienna - I always love the trip reports from the guys at Hand Luggage Only, which are full of great suggestions and helpful links.
Culinary Food Tours in Vienna - Though we didn't book any of these tours, this did provide us with some great ideas to get started.
Self Guided Musician Walks - If you love music and the history of the composers who lived in Vienna, this is a great way to walk in their footsteps.
ViennaCity Tours - The company that organized our day trip to the Wachau Valley for wine tasting. We would highly recommend Ivan as your tour guide.
Winerist - An online booking platform specifically for wine tourism. If you have more time in the Vienna/Prague area, and want to search for longer food and wine tours, there is a much larger selection here.
Vienna Cat Cafe - Because who doesn't love a cat cafe, and just by walking to this location you will find some amazing shops along the way!
Gemundner Ceramik- An incredible handmade shop specializing in pottery and ceramics. A practical and unique souvenir to take home with you. They also ship internationally!
Gigerl Heuriger - An inner city wine tavern that serves traditional Viennese cuisine in a buffet style. We loved sitting out on the patio in the afternoon drinking Gruner Vertliner and observing the happenings of the city.
Griechenbeisl - It doesn't get more classic and historic than this place! A landmark of the old city in Vienna, enjoy a traditional meal in a unique atmosphere. Portions are huge, so prepare yourself, especially if you are trying to save room for dessert - they are famous for their apfelstrudel!
Vienna Airport Lines Bus - This is the bus service that will take you from the airport into the old city center of Vienna for 16 Euros. Depending on where you are staying in the old city, this can be the more affordable and direct option.
Vienna CAT - This is the new light rail service from the airport to the old town of Vienna. Though very expensive at 23 Euros, this is a very nice and quick way to get downtown from the airport.
Railjet- Providing direct train service between Vienna and Prague, this route is a collaboration between ÖBB (the Austrian service) and CzechyRail (the Czech Service). Make sure you have your ticket printed or digitally available before boarding the train as these two services do not collaborate with their ticket sales and you will need to show your ticket to each company attendant. We found that Railjet provided more continuous service and a better schedule than booking through the RailEurope site.
Prague
Prague Castle - A UNESCO heritage site and a fixture in the Prague skyline, Prague castle is a must visit. Though you do not need to book your tickets online, I would recommend researching which type of entrance fee you would like as there are several tiers of access, price points, and amount of time required to visit it all. We chose Circuit B, which provides you with access to St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George's Basilica, Golden Lane and Daliborka Tower. We found this was more than enough to see. There are also guided tours if you wish to join those as well.
25 best things to do in Prague - Again Timeout always delivers with a great list to kickoff trip planning.
A Perfect day in Prague - The Blonde Abroad provides a good summary of key sites to visit if you are short on time.
Cafe Savoy - An authentic classic cafe, serving elegant breakfast in a unique setting. We came here each morning and loved it- it was a great way to start the day off!
Follow the Green Fairy Absinthe tour - This was our first experience using AirBnb's 'Experiences' option and we absolutely had a blast with Nathaly. If you are curious about Absinthe and how to drink it, allow Nathaly to show you around Prague and take you to some great spots to sample Absinthe both the Czech and French ways.
Absinthe Museum - If you can't make the tour, I would highly recommend at minimum visiting the Absinthe Museum to learn more about the history of the spirit in the Czech Republic and worldwide, and to try cocktails and beer infused with the spirit.
Art walk tour of Kafka - Franz Kafka is famous in Prague, and his art is spread throughout the city. You can visit the museum of course, but walking around and seeing the art is equally fun!
Design Gallery of Czech Artists - If you are looking for an amazing souvenir, I would recommend visiting this design gallery. I purchased some amazing hand etched crystal glasses here.
Czech beer hall Lokal - Czech people love to drink beer. And to experience a modernized fusion of the classic beer hall, head to Lokal to enjoy the local Pilsner and Dunkel. They also serve delicious sausage and rye break when you need to supplement your drinks!
Old Jewish Cemetery - The Jewish quarter in itself is a beautiful walk through the city, but the old Jewish Cemetery is an incredible wealth of history and experiences. Bring cash as the ticketing office does not accept credit card.
Happy Adventures!
Stephanie
Comentários